Guerilla Warfare On Ice

HELLO from Dalat, Vietnam!!!!! Ok, so there's lots and lots to update you guys on, so I'll dive right into it. It's been a busy few days since I first got back to Saigon, and I apologize for being away for so long!!!
Right, when I last checked in, I was alone in HCMC for the afternoon before Zack arrived that evening. It was great to be back in Saigon. I finally had the time to explore the city at my own pace, seeing all of the major sites in the central area: the market, the War Remnants Museum, Reunification Palace, Opera House, Notre Dame Cathedral (just like in Paris), and all of the city streets intertwining around the whole area. HCMC is extremely crowded, clustered, and chaotic. But, there is so much to see, it's pretty much a sensory overload everywhere you turn!

Zack arrived safely on the night of the 15th, and we met up for a celebratory drink with some British folk I met earlier that day. The next day we set off for some history and culture in the city: we went to the War Remnants Museum and the Reunification Palace. For already being in Vietnam for 10 days, I had learned very little about the history of this country and the wars it has endured. The War Remnants Museum was a very realistic, brutal, and eye-opening account of the horrors of the Vietnam War. My previous knowledge of the Vietnam War was very limited; obviously there is an anti-American sentiment throughout the museum, but justifiably so considering outsiders invaded their country and killed millions of citizens (3 million were killed by the time the Vietnam War was over - over 50,000 Americans died). The museum had vivid photos of American soldiers in battle; you could see the sense of desparation on the faces of the Americans. It seemed like there was no way out of the war, no end in sight, and no sign of victory. This hopelessness must have fueled the rage and violence over innocent lives. There was also a detailed account of the many western journalists who lost their lives in the war - such bravery for the account of history. Many went missing and were never found. Some famous pulitzer prize-winning photos were also among the display, which many of you have probably seen. Harrowing pictures of despair. After leaving the museum, two things occurred to me: 1) I was reminded that war is futile, and for being involved in Vietnam for over 10 years, what good came out of it? 2) The Vietnam War bears striking resemblance to the current war in Iraq (in terms of a lack of vision, misunderstandings of what our goals are, how to exit the war, and why we are there).

From the War Remnants Museum, we went to the Reunification Palace, which was the headquarters for South Vietnam's king until April 30, 1975 when the North Vietnamese came into Saigon with tanks down the main boulevard, right into the palace. The north took power from the south and reunited Vietnam into a single country under a socialist republic (aka communist) rule. The palace was very impressive - everything has been kept as is since April 30, 1975 - all of the furniture is intact, etc, and you can go down to the basement level and check out the war bunker, which is a huge maze of maps, telephones, desks, all left exactly as it was 30 years ago. You got the sense of how the war strategy was coordinated, and you could even follow their markings over the maps directing the armies across the country. Very cool.

After the palace, we walked around the center city and headed back to our hostel to get ready to go out for the evening. Dinner, drinks, and pool with our British friends from the night before. Good times. I'm actually getting to be a good pool player. :-)

The following day Zack and I went to the Cu Chi Tunnels, which is about 60 km from HCMC. We took an organized group tour, so we were on a bus full of people. Luckily, our tour guide was great and gave a complete history of Vietnam since the 19th century up until today on the ride out there. So, I'm pretty knowledgeable about the French colonialization of Vietnam, and how that eventually led to a North/South divide once the French left, which then led to the Vietnam War. Anyway, the Cu Chi Tunnels is an area that was controlled by Viet Cong Guerillas for the entire length of the War - the Americans/South Vietnamese could not capture it. The network of underground tunnels is so extensive, and was so ingeniously protected from invaders. We walked around the grounds, and saw the booby traps put in place for the American GIs. Basically, you didn't want to step foot there if you didn't know where you were going. One wrong step and you could've been killed. They had traps covered in leaves that opened onto bamboo spikes (you get the idea). Very effective, very bloody. At the end of the tour we were able to walk through a section of the tunnel - very small, maybe 3 feet high (at most), and a couple of feet wide. You had to crouch and crawl through most of it. It was an intense experience. These VC guerillas lived down there for years, it's pretty incredible to think how they managed to survive and keep their will to carry on. The most disturbing part of the trip to Cu Chi was a documentary video that we watched of the Cu Chi guerillas explaining how they lived there, how they built the tunnels, etc. Their main goal was to kill Americans. They had an award for the "American Killer Hero" - basically whoever could kill the most Americans. I felt pretty sick from it all - I kept thinking of my country, and the American families who had to hear that their child was killed in Vietnam. And then I see the smiling faces of the guerillas as they prepare the traps and weapons. It was all so confusing. In war, which side is right??? Didn't these people have a right to defend their land??? OH - and, to top off one heck of a troubling day, there was a shooting range right there, so you could buy a round and shoot an AK-47 if you so desire. So there were gunshots going off as we were walking around the place!!!!! Ugh.

Needless to say, after we got back from Cu Chi, Zack and I needed a break from Vietnam War activities. We decided to go to Dam Sen Park, which we read about in the Lonely Planet. We didn't really know what to expect, but we took a motobike out to the park, which was a pretty long ride and it gave us a GREAT view of the real Saigon, outside of backpackerville. So, Dam Sen is an amusement park/zoo/fantasy land - there are roller coasters, haunted houses, ferris wheels, AND an alligator habitat, a bird sanctuary, cobra display, elephant riding AND an orchid/flower garden. The place was huge, and Zack and I were pretty much the only ones there. It was amazing...it didn't feel like we were in HCMC. The absolute best part of the park was the ice sculpture house. Neither Zack nor I had been in one before, so we didn't know what to expect. They gave us long jackets to put on, and we basically opened a walk-in freezer door to enter. Inside, it was like nothing I had ever seen. There was a HUGE room with life-size ice sculptures EVERYWHERE. Houses, castles, people, Buddhas - you could walk through everything, it was pretty magical. There were colored/neon lights illuminating all of it, so it was like a fantasy ice world. Amazing. It felt like a combination of Willy Wonka World and Edward Scissorhands. :-)

After Dam Sen Park, we took a motobike back to backpackerville in the dark - a thrill ride through the city. Saigon is SO crazy busy. So much fun - people everywhere, bikes clogging the streets. It was an amazing experience to drive through it. Once we got back again, we met up with our British friends (again) for some more dinner, beer, and pool. :-) (Can we sense a pattern of activity here????)

The next day (the 18th, I believe), Zack and I boarded a morning bus for Dalat. About 9 hours later, we got here. Dalat is in the mountains, so it's much the climate is much more moderate and cool. The city itself is a LOT smaller than HCMC, which was a welcomed change. There are mountains surrounding all sides, so it's a gorgeous and scenic place to be - the views are spectacular all around. Last night Zack and I walked into town and wandered around the central market, got some dinner, and then walked around the lake that sits in the center of town. (It's a very scenic place, Vietnamese people have nicknamed Dalat the "Honeymoon City", since it has become a romantic holiday destination. No romance for me yet, but I'm still enjoying the city.) We headed back early and got a good night's sleep (for a change!). Today we walked around the city some more, saw some sights (flower garden, former Vietnamese emperor's Summer Palace), and just enjoyed the small city life of Dalat.

Tomorrow we set off for a 5-day motorbike tour from Dalat to Hoi An with Easy Riders. I'm not exactly sure of the itinerary, but I know that tomorrow will basically consist of the sites around Dalat (there are some amazing waterfalls around here, I'm told), and then the following day we head up into the central highlands of Vietnam. Then we make our way further north along the Ho Chi Minh Trail ending in Hoi An on the 24th. We should see some great scenery, soak up some culture, learn more about the history, meet local people, and experience the real Vietnam. From what I've heard from friends I've met along the way, Easy Riders is the best way to see Vietnam. The guides are supposed to be great, and it's a proper break from the backpacker bus route up the coast. I'm sure that when the tour is over I'll have plenty of updates for you guys, but I just wanted to give you the heads up on my impending travels.

Traveling with Zack: So far, it's been lots of fun having Zack here. I think it will take him a few days to adjust to traveling in SE Asia - I don't think he was prepared for the amount of tourists here, and how tourist-centered SE Asia really is, but everything takes some getting used to, and when we head out on the bike tour tomorrow it will be a new chapter on the trip. Good times ahead, for sure.

Alrighty, I think that's all for now - I'm almost 6 weeks done with the trip now, which means that I'm over the hump of the SE Asia portion. Once Zack and I head up to Hoi An on the motorbikes, we fly to Hanoi and then we'll spend a week in the north of Vietnam (Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa) before heading to Laos for 2 weeks. Can't wait for Laos, it should be amazing. Then, of course, I move on to India. :-)

I miss you all so much! It's great to hear from you guys via email and blog comments.

Greg - crazy story about the subway!!!! I do miss the insane folks of NYC - remember that time on the F train when that woman almost beat up that other girl with her boot!!! haha

Ross - Kudos to you for the 6-week beard growth. I bet you and I look like brothers now. :-) Best of luck house hunting!!!! Love to Amy!

Lalapantz - Thanks for the guat update a few days ago!!! Miss you and love you. Enjoy the last month or two of the trip!!!!

Aly P - I was looking back over my photos and saw all the ones of you & me. Miss you! Remember the picture of you & the mannequin? I can't wait to post that one!!! :-)

Yefat - I've started searching for post-it notes in the markets. Excellent challenge. I'll keep you updated. Congrats on finishing law school!!! Best of luck in DC!!!

Natasha - I will try to get my pictures online ASAP. I'm sorry it's taken so long. I'll send you Noah's email.

Noah - how's the thesis going???? Miss you bro.

Carrie - Can't wait to hear all about Argentina & life back in SF!!!

Rob - Good to hear from you!!! Cheers for the UKTI updates.

Anna & Lauren - Miss you guys!!!!!!!

Lots of love to everyone else in NYC, DC, UK!!!!!!!!!!

Love to my family in Newburgh (mom and dad, miss you!!!!!!), NYC, DC, Boston

BYE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!