HELLO FROM HANOI, VIETNAM!!!!!! Oh how I've missed everyone terribly, and how I've missed blogging to you guys from the other side of the world!!! It's been one week since my last blog - my largest absence yet. BUT - so many incredible things have happened in the last week, I want to make sure I include every detail, so I hope you all have some time to spare. Before I delve in, let me first say a few things:
1) Vietnam is the most beautiful country (except Israel, maybe) that I have been to. The extraordinary scenery, beautiful people, and---most importantly---ease with which tourists are escorted around from place to place makes Vietnam my favorite country so far.....by far. :-) I strongly recommend that everyone travels to this country. You only need 2-3 weeks to do it right...perfectly manageable on an American work schedule (I think). Each day this country blows my mind. Minor things never cease to amaze me, major things humble me, and everything else in between reminds me how lucky I am to be here.
2) I am officially 7 weeks into my trip, and can now see India (part 2 of my trip) on the horizon. In the last few days I've finally met people who know all about India from their own travels, and I am starting to get excited. Very excited. Even though it's still 3 weeks away, and I have lots of amazing memories to create in the interim, I know that SE Asia is just preparation for what awaits me on June 20th.
3) I am no longer a tourist. While of course I stick out like a tall, white, and bearded westerner in this land of Vietnamese people, I am one among many backpackers living the traveler's life. I have stayed the longest in this country out of the 3 so far (it will have been 1 month exactly when I leave), so I feel a part of the traveler's world in this country. The rhythm and pace that is backpacking suits me - every day is still an adventure, I just am a little more prepared to handle it with ease now.
OK - let's continue on the story that is Danny Does Asia, shall we???
When I last wrote, I had finished Day 3 of the Easy Riders tour from Dalat to Hoi An. The start of Day 4 was most exciting, as Hung and Dinh had promised us that the scenery would be most amazing. In the morning, we drove to see a few couple of memorials around the town of Kon Tum: a suspension bridge built by the French in the 1930s, and from there we went to a wooden church for the local indigenous people's religion. Attached to the church was an orphanage with about 200 children, ranging in age from infants to 16 year olds. Zack and I visited the baby room first, and I fell completely in love with the babies...so absolutely adorable. We played with them for a few minutes - I think they were kinda shocked to see two white boys in their playpen, but they warmed up after a few minutes and their faces lit up with smiles. Apparently that orphange is frequented by European families looking to adopt children, so it was nice to know that there is hope for a better life for these children. Zack and I walked into a classroom of 12 year old girls who sang songs in English for us - very sweet. Their teacher was a translator for the American army during the Vietnam War, and had been working at the orphanage for about 10 years. All of the kids loved him - you could feel how warm his heart is just by looking in his eyes. It was amazing to enter a completely different world yet still feel so attached to these people. It reminds me how universally the same everyone is. Same same but different, of course. :-)
From the orphanage we went to the Kon Tum prison, where the French military held captive North Vietnamese (communist) political leaders. When the French left Vietnam in 1954, the prisoners were released, strengthening the North's military/political power, hence progressing the order of events that eventually led to the Vietnam War. The prison had been turned into a memorial, and what impressed me most was the photo collection from a 1994 anniversary ceremony that honored the living veterans of the prison, who are now (or had been) major political figures in the reunified (post-1975) government. Who knows what they had to go through to survive that prison; it was yet another example of this country's ability to move on from their history of war. One thing I've learned is that the people of this country love peace.
After the prison we visited a memorial for the liberation day in 1972 when the North came through Kon Tum and sent the Americans/South Vietnamese further south. And from there we saw a cemetery for unknown victims of the battle at Charlie Hill, before we drove onto the Ho Chi Minh Trail and stopped at Charlie Hill. Charlie Hill is actually a few hills around a central flat area where the Americans were stationed. A large landing strip for the American military is still there. Basically, Charlie hill was a 3-month long battle that had a 6-month build up (in terms of military strategy and planning). What is now green hills and quiet farmland was once bloodshed and murder. The Americans were at the top of the hills, and the North came up from the bottom. So many soldiers died in the middle. They nicknamed the battle a "hamburger" hill because of the "meat" that formed in the middle of two ends. Carnage. After the battle of Charlie Hill, the US Army pulled out from the central highlands and concentrated its stronghold around Saigon, until 1973 when the US left.
After Charlie Hill, we began our drive along the Ho Chi Minh trail up through the Central Highlands of Vietnam. To say that the scenery was stunning is an understatement. Imagine winding roads through the mountains, green all around you, mountains looming over you at every turn. It was as picturesque as you can imagine. The sun was shining, green farms and hills made me forget all the problems in the world, and for a few hours, this simple and beautiful existence was all that mattered. We kept passing through small villages, passing schools with children leaving for the day, and while it seems so trivial and insignificant, whenever I said hello to someone on the street, it made the day even better - especially the kids. They look so confused when I made eye contact with them from the bike; once I smile and wave and say hello, they light up and scream hello back at the top of their lungs. They love seeing westerners in their small corner of the world. The four of us stopped at a waterfall on the side of the road for a beautiful photo op - then we decided to walk up and hang out at the waterfall. Of course, Zack (who has proven more and more to be a klutz lately) slipped and fell flat on his back going down the rocks back to the bike. Luckily he was completely fine, minus a couple of wet legs and a wet bum. :-) Phew, the road trip carried on.
An unexpected and ultimate highlight came towards the end of our day when we stopped for water at a house on the side of the road. About 10 little kids came out from the surrounding houses to see us, and so Zack and I brought out our cameras and of course they had a field day. These kids were beyond cute. I have some great photos and videos. Of course, none of this would've happened if I were on a bus driving from city to city along the "regular" touristy backpacker route. Riding a motorbike is the only way to experience Southeast Asia. Period.
After what was probably one of the most amazing afternoons of my life, we arrived at our destination, a small Vietnamese town with a small-town feel: a couple of main streets, people walking around, shops lining the streets. It felt almost like an Old Western town. Anyway, the four of us enjoyed a great seafood dinner, ice cream, and then we called it a night. Day 5 was our final day. We visited a family that runs an incense factory, another family that runs a rice paper factory, and then it was on toward My Son. I actually visited My Son with Brad (my American travel companion my first time up Vietnam), so I wasn't in a rush to get back. Fortunately, (or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it), Hung's bike got a flat tire, so we had to stop for a half hour to get it fixed. Luckily there was a bike repair shop just up the street from where we stopped, so we didn't have to push it that far. Zack and Dinh continued on to My Son, and once our bike was fixed, I asked Hung if we could go back to the roadside store that Brad & I had visited last time (Remember: that was the one where Brad & I hung out with all of those kids and took pictures with them, bought them ice cream, etc?? Same place). The man was out there when we pulled up, and it took him a few minutes, and a viewing of my photos to remember when I was there. Apparently, since I'd left, one of the boys in the group photo broke his nose swimming. But, he's all patched up now and back at school. Another of the little boys (my favorite one) was nearby and walked over to the owner and his wife. I showed him the pictures of him that I took last time, and he said "yes" when they asked if he remembered me. He's 5 years old. So cute. How amazing that I was able to revisit a stop along the way of my travels and see their life 2 weeks later.
Once Zack and Dinh met up with us after the temples of My Son, (Zack was very impressed), we headed into Hoi An. That afternoon we checked into our hotel, ate a late lunch with Dinh and Hung, and then Zack and I went out and got some more clothes picked out for ourselves (I got a suit and another jacket). That evening we had our last dinner and drinks with Hung and Dinh (they were meant to leave for Dalat the next morning). They brought us to a well-known (except to Westerners) restaurant with great spring rolls. They kept bringing out food to us, and when she saw how much food was left over, the owner (this amazing woman who has been running the restaurant for 14 years, starting with no money in her pocket) came over to me, hand-made me a spring roll, and fed it to me, by hand. :-) Mom, you would've liked her a lot. I even said, "my mother would like you a lot right now." I was well fed that night. Not really sure with what type of meat I was well fed, but no need to worry about that.
Hoi An Part II was great - the next morning Zack and I headed for the beach and chilled out for most of the day, before picking up our new clothes in the afternoon. I have to admit, I'm less happy with the clothes this time around than I was last time, but hey, they were cheap enough - not a big deal. Bygones. That night Zack and I went for a walk outside of tourist zone (Hoi An is very touristy) where we found a pool hall full of Vietnamese. From there, we went out for some drinks with a German guy I met the night before, and we met a couple of Americans and an Austrailian girl for a fun night of card (drinking) games. Our last morning in Hoi An was spent picking up souveniers (Zack bought the souveniers, I joined him along the way - no souvenier shopping yet for me! To early!!) and then we headed to the airport to fly up to Hanoi. Our plan was to arrive around dinner time and meet my German girl friends from Cambodia, who were also in Hanoi and were very excited to meet us. Unfortunately, our plans got a little screwed up: our flight time was moved back 4 hours, we were an hour late to the hotel that the German girls were at, and once we did get there, I couldn't find them because I was heckled so much into staying at another hotel Zack and I left quickly. BUT - all ended well when I went out for a well-deserved beer with my German friends to finish the night. It was the first time I actually got stressed out on this trip, and the first time I let the stress affect my mood. I will now chalk it all up to experience...I forgot that not everything goes according to (my) plan, and I also forgot that I get stressed out when trying to coordinate schedules with other people and it doesn't go according to plan. Moving on, I was stress-free by the next day and Zack and I were able to carry on our fun travails. I guess getting slightly stressed out once in 2 months isn't such a big deal. :-)
The following day Zack, myself, Nicole, and Regi (the 2 German girls) spent the day as a tourist visiting the sights of Hanoi. We started out going to see the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum - that's right, Uncle Ho Chi Minh's body is encased in glass for all to see. After waiting in what was probably the longest tourist line ever, we got to walk (rather, we were herded) through the room containing his body. Very impressive. He looks good for a dead guy. That afternoon we walked around Ho Chi Minh's presidential palace grounds (again, very touristy), and then we headed to the Literature Temple, which was the first university in Vietnam, started in the year 1100 AD, or something like that. Super old. From there, we went to the Vietnam Military Museum, where we saw some great photos from the War era (again) and then climbed to the top of an old viewing tower for a picture of the city. Once we were done being tourists, the four of us headed to one of the 2 major lakes in Hanoi for some major (and well deserved) R&R by the lake. That evening, Zack and I parted ways from the girls to buy our flight tickets to Laos on June 3rd. What should have been a quick and easy experience yet again turned into a funny story. We were about to hand the lady our credit cards to pay for the tickets when I heard a crackling sound. I turned around and saw the mass of plugs and wires for the office literally burst into flames in a loud boom, and then the whole office went black. I can laugh about all of this now. :-) Only in Vietnam. That night we joined the German girls and a few other guys for cheap beer in the street of Hanoi (Bier Hoi - 2000 Dong for a glass...aka 10 cents for a glass of beer!!!) and then called it a night.
We left for Halong Bay the following morning. Zack and I booked the trip and our next trip (which I leave for in about 2 hours) with Kangaroo Cafe, in case anyone wants any travel advice. Great company, run by a loquaciously communist, yet well-intentioned Australian man. Halong Bay is at the northeastern coast of Vietnam, and I've seen so many pictures of it and heard lots of great things, but of course, nothing can prepare you for seeing it in person. Zack and I joined an 8-person, 2-day 1 night boat trip around the bay. Our group consisted of 2 Aussies, 2 Brits, 2 Canadians and us. We had to take a 3 hour minivan trip to the coast and then we boarded our junk boat (NOTE: Junk boat is the actual type of boat, not the descriptive word for its state of being - it's basically a large sailboat) and set off for the bay. Halong Bay is a huge body of water containing 2,000 huge rock mounds that just out of the water. Traveling through the Bay is quite impressive. All around you are these huge rocks with trees covering them, dotted all across the water. After sailing for a few hours around the bay, we went to see the caves of Halong Bay. To summarize: HUGE limestone caves, with stalagtites and stalagmites(kudos to anyone who actually knows which is which) highlighted with well-placed colored lights that make the caves look like a yet-to-be-made blockbuster Hollywood movie set. From one of the lookout points at the top of the cave, we could see all of the junk boats in the bay surrounded by the rocks. And then it hit us: we have found Neverland! Do you remember in the movie "Hook" when Robin Williams goes to Neverland? Remember all of the ships in the magical water surrounded by rocks, etc? Well, this is same same but better. Zack and I were pretty amazed and exstatic to be lost boys in Neverland. I so wanted to be Rufio back in the day, and for an hour or so, I felt like him. "RU-FI-O, RU-FI-O" Very cool.
Once we re-boarded our ship, we set off again to another point in the bay just for some afternoon swimming/jumping off the ship into the water. So much fun! The water was beautiful, and it felt great to get wet after hiking around for quite a while in the caves. We ended our swim session just as the sun fell behind the rocks. From the top deck of the boat, we set sail again in full view of the sunset. To be honest, I have never experienced anything quite like watching the sun set in Halong Bay. The sky was divinely lit, the rocks were glowing out of the water, and the water's reflection of it all would've proven difficult for any artist to replicate on canvas. (Luckily I have more than enough digital photos to solve that problem). The 8 of us sat on the top of the boat in silence. It was breathtakingly gorgeous. Yet again, I felt completely lucky to have seen it. After a delicious dinner, we hung out under the moonlight on the top deck and then called it a night. This morning we had a nice breakfast on the ship, and headed to a beach on one of the small rock islands in the Bay. Zack and I and the two Aussies wanted to go kayaking, but unfortunately it didn't work out. We had heard that there's a cave nearby through which you can kayak, but it was apparently too far in the timespan that we had. But, fate was on our side and there was a speedboat next to us, and for the same price as the kayaks, we were taken to the cave, which was actually a cavernous entrance to a hidden cove, enclosed on all sides by 100-foot tall rocks. The 4 of us were pretty blown away by what we had discovered. It definitely felt like a scene out of "The Beach." We swam in the cove for a few minutes, shouted at the top of our lungs to hear our echos, and then headed back in the speedboat to rejoin our group back on the boat to return to shore. Lunch back on the mainland was followed by the 3-hour trip back to Hanoi, which brings me to right now. (Deep exhale). Zack and I leave at 8pm tonight (9am NYC time) for an overnight train to Sapa, which is in the Northwest corner of Vietnam, and in the hills, so it should be a lot cooler up there. We're signed up for a 3-day, 2-night trip: one night in a hotel, one night staying in a village with the indiginous people, and lots of trekking/sightseeing/cultural stuff in between. It should be an amazing time. After we get back on the morning of June 2nd, Zack and I hang out in Hanoi for another day and then fly out to Luang Prabang, Laos on June 3rd. I can't wait to see Laos. As much as I love Vietnam, I know that it's time to go, and Laos should be relaxing and beautiful and a great way to end my SE Asian experience.
So, if you've gotten to the end of this blog entry, I salute you. Thanks for keeping up with my travels. It really has been a superior week of my trip, and I'm glad I got through all of it in the blog. I promise to update you either in Sapa or right after I get back in 3 days, so look out for the next entry. AND - Please be in touch!!! I think about you all so much, so please shoot me an email or add a comment to the blog. It makes me happy to hear from you guys. :-)
Until next time....
Lots of love always!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Quick update from the road
Hello from Kon Tum, Vietnam!!! Just wanted to give a quick update - not much else to report today, except that we had a great day of driving through the country. Great views, blue skies with puffy clouds as far as the eye can see. Dinh and Hung (our Easy Rider guides) are still awesome and are showing us the best trip ever. Tomorrow is another 180 km through the Ho Chi Minh trail - it's supposed to be the best scenery of the whole trip, so I'll be sure to take lots of pictures. We are supposed to visit the Kon Tum Prison - a political prison built by the French, so that should be very interesting. Today we visited a rubber tree farm and a pepper farm, and then we got to our hotel and had a delicious meal of Vietnamese pancakes...yum. I will gladly volunteer to be anyone's chaperone to a Vietnamese restaurant once I'm back in NY. I know all the good picks.
Quick shoutout: HAPPY 26th BIRTHDAY ROSS!!!!!!!!!!! (I know it's on May 23rd, but I won't be on the internet for a couple more days). Enjoy the day! You're almost 30!!! And you're married!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lots of love to everyone!!!
Quick shoutout: HAPPY 26th BIRTHDAY ROSS!!!!!!!!!!! (I know it's on May 23rd, but I won't be on the internet for a couple more days). Enjoy the day! You're almost 30!!! And you're married!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lots of love to everyone!!!
Monday, May 21, 2007
Motorcycle Diaries, Vina-style
HELLO from life on the Easy Rider road!!! Today is the end of day 2 of my 5-day tour through the Vietnamese countryside. So far, the trip has been incredible. It is such a difference to go up the country on the back of a bike, rather than on a bus filled with other backpackers. Our drivers names are Dinh and Hung, Dinh is 26, and Hung is 30. They're great guys, very funny, and they take care of Zack and me to the fullest. Yesterday we set off from Dalat (with all of our bags) and headed to a coffee farm, then hiked to a waterfall, then we drove on and visited a silk factory to see how silk is made from silkworms (very amazing process), then we carried on to Lak Lake where we had a delicious Vietnamese dinner and lots of rice alcohol to wash it all down. (Cheers in Vietnamese is "YO" - I like it.) Zack and I talked to Dinh and Hung about life as a Vietnamese citizen. Yesterday was the national "elections" (in quotes because there's only 1 party). Both Dinh and Hung are not in favor of their country's government. Dinh's father and grandfather fought with the South & the USA during the War, and therefore has lots of prejudice against the North/current government/Ho Chi Minh. It was interesting to hear their views on Americans (they love them), and what it's like to live in this country.
Today we rode an elephant across Lak Lake (my 2nd elephant riding experience, and honestly, not as fun as the first. The elephants looked pretty ragged and they didn't seem to be as treated as when Aly and I rode ours in Chiang Mai. They didn't even let us feed the elephants bananas this time!!! Outrageous!) After the elephants, we visited a brick factory to see how bricks are made. The Central Highlands of Vietnam has abundant clay in its topsoil, so bricks are a large commodity. Basically, they push clay through a press (kinda like when you push play-doh through that toy to make it into "food", then they cut it into rectangular form, let it dry, then cook it in an oven until it gets the reddish color. Interesting process. Then we arrived at our current location, Buon Ma Thuon, where we dropped off our bags and grabbed lunch - Vietnamese Spring Rolls. Authentic with a capital A. (We roll them ourselves with rice paper...yummmmmmy) After lunch we drove to see some waterfalls, which were pretty spectacular. HUGE, stretching wide across the cliffs. Today's highlight was swimming in a river at the bottom of a waterfall as the rain was pouring down. It was pretty special - it definitely felt like I was in Vietnam.
The best part of motorbiking up the country is the scenery. Everywhere you look, you can see mountains, farms, small towns - it's all breathtaking. The sky in Vietnam is stunning. The clouds are unlike anything I've seen before...it looks computer generated. I feel lucky to be here and to see this country. We have another 3 days - tomorrow should be a tough one as we have 230 km to cover in 1 day. Our fourth day takes us along the Ho Chi Minh Trail which should have some amazing views. I'll give you guys another update when I can.
Lots of love always!!!!!!!!!!!!
PS - Vina means VIetNAm, in case you were wondering. :-)
Today we rode an elephant across Lak Lake (my 2nd elephant riding experience, and honestly, not as fun as the first. The elephants looked pretty ragged and they didn't seem to be as treated as when Aly and I rode ours in Chiang Mai. They didn't even let us feed the elephants bananas this time!!! Outrageous!) After the elephants, we visited a brick factory to see how bricks are made. The Central Highlands of Vietnam has abundant clay in its topsoil, so bricks are a large commodity. Basically, they push clay through a press (kinda like when you push play-doh through that toy to make it into "food", then they cut it into rectangular form, let it dry, then cook it in an oven until it gets the reddish color. Interesting process. Then we arrived at our current location, Buon Ma Thuon, where we dropped off our bags and grabbed lunch - Vietnamese Spring Rolls. Authentic with a capital A. (We roll them ourselves with rice paper...yummmmmmy) After lunch we drove to see some waterfalls, which were pretty spectacular. HUGE, stretching wide across the cliffs. Today's highlight was swimming in a river at the bottom of a waterfall as the rain was pouring down. It was pretty special - it definitely felt like I was in Vietnam.
The best part of motorbiking up the country is the scenery. Everywhere you look, you can see mountains, farms, small towns - it's all breathtaking. The sky in Vietnam is stunning. The clouds are unlike anything I've seen before...it looks computer generated. I feel lucky to be here and to see this country. We have another 3 days - tomorrow should be a tough one as we have 230 km to cover in 1 day. Our fourth day takes us along the Ho Chi Minh Trail which should have some amazing views. I'll give you guys another update when I can.
Lots of love always!!!!!!!!!!!!
PS - Vina means VIetNAm, in case you were wondering. :-)
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Guerilla Warfare On Ice
HELLO from Dalat, Vietnam!!!!! Ok, so there's lots and lots to update you guys on, so I'll dive right into it. It's been a busy few days since I first got back to Saigon, and I apologize for being away for so long!!!
Right, when I last checked in, I was alone in HCMC for the afternoon before Zack arrived that evening. It was great to be back in Saigon. I finally had the time to explore the city at my own pace, seeing all of the major sites in the central area: the market, the War Remnants Museum, Reunification Palace, Opera House, Notre Dame Cathedral (just like in Paris), and all of the city streets intertwining around the whole area. HCMC is extremely crowded, clustered, and chaotic. But, there is so much to see, it's pretty much a sensory overload everywhere you turn!
Zack arrived safely on the night of the 15th, and we met up for a celebratory drink with some British folk I met earlier that day. The next day we set off for some history and culture in the city: we went to the War Remnants Museum and the Reunification Palace. For already being in Vietnam for 10 days, I had learned very little about the history of this country and the wars it has endured. The War Remnants Museum was a very realistic, brutal, and eye-opening account of the horrors of the Vietnam War. My previous knowledge of the Vietnam War was very limited; obviously there is an anti-American sentiment throughout the museum, but justifiably so considering outsiders invaded their country and killed millions of citizens (3 million were killed by the time the Vietnam War was over - over 50,000 Americans died). The museum had vivid photos of American soldiers in battle; you could see the sense of desparation on the faces of the Americans. It seemed like there was no way out of the war, no end in sight, and no sign of victory. This hopelessness must have fueled the rage and violence over innocent lives. There was also a detailed account of the many western journalists who lost their lives in the war - such bravery for the account of history. Many went missing and were never found. Some famous pulitzer prize-winning photos were also among the display, which many of you have probably seen. Harrowing pictures of despair. After leaving the museum, two things occurred to me: 1) I was reminded that war is futile, and for being involved in Vietnam for over 10 years, what good came out of it? 2) The Vietnam War bears striking resemblance to the current war in Iraq (in terms of a lack of vision, misunderstandings of what our goals are, how to exit the war, and why we are there).
From the War Remnants Museum, we went to the Reunification Palace, which was the headquarters for South Vietnam's king until April 30, 1975 when the North Vietnamese came into Saigon with tanks down the main boulevard, right into the palace. The north took power from the south and reunited Vietnam into a single country under a socialist republic (aka communist) rule. The palace was very impressive - everything has been kept as is since April 30, 1975 - all of the furniture is intact, etc, and you can go down to the basement level and check out the war bunker, which is a huge maze of maps, telephones, desks, all left exactly as it was 30 years ago. You got the sense of how the war strategy was coordinated, and you could even follow their markings over the maps directing the armies across the country. Very cool.
After the palace, we walked around the center city and headed back to our hostel to get ready to go out for the evening. Dinner, drinks, and pool with our British friends from the night before. Good times. I'm actually getting to be a good pool player. :-)
The following day Zack and I went to the Cu Chi Tunnels, which is about 60 km from HCMC. We took an organized group tour, so we were on a bus full of people. Luckily, our tour guide was great and gave a complete history of Vietnam since the 19th century up until today on the ride out there. So, I'm pretty knowledgeable about the French colonialization of Vietnam, and how that eventually led to a North/South divide once the French left, which then led to the Vietnam War. Anyway, the Cu Chi Tunnels is an area that was controlled by Viet Cong Guerillas for the entire length of the War - the Americans/South Vietnamese could not capture it. The network of underground tunnels is so extensive, and was so ingeniously protected from invaders. We walked around the grounds, and saw the booby traps put in place for the American GIs. Basically, you didn't want to step foot there if you didn't know where you were going. One wrong step and you could've been killed. They had traps covered in leaves that opened onto bamboo spikes (you get the idea). Very effective, very bloody. At the end of the tour we were able to walk through a section of the tunnel - very small, maybe 3 feet high (at most), and a couple of feet wide. You had to crouch and crawl through most of it. It was an intense experience. These VC guerillas lived down there for years, it's pretty incredible to think how they managed to survive and keep their will to carry on. The most disturbing part of the trip to Cu Chi was a documentary video that we watched of the Cu Chi guerillas explaining how they lived there, how they built the tunnels, etc. Their main goal was to kill Americans. They had an award for the "American Killer Hero" - basically whoever could kill the most Americans. I felt pretty sick from it all - I kept thinking of my country, and the American families who had to hear that their child was killed in Vietnam. And then I see the smiling faces of the guerillas as they prepare the traps and weapons. It was all so confusing. In war, which side is right??? Didn't these people have a right to defend their land??? OH - and, to top off one heck of a troubling day, there was a shooting range right there, so you could buy a round and shoot an AK-47 if you so desire. So there were gunshots going off as we were walking around the place!!!!! Ugh.
Needless to say, after we got back from Cu Chi, Zack and I needed a break from Vietnam War activities. We decided to go to Dam Sen Park, which we read about in the Lonely Planet. We didn't really know what to expect, but we took a motobike out to the park, which was a pretty long ride and it gave us a GREAT view of the real Saigon, outside of backpackerville. So, Dam Sen is an amusement park/zoo/fantasy land - there are roller coasters, haunted houses, ferris wheels, AND an alligator habitat, a bird sanctuary, cobra display, elephant riding AND an orchid/flower garden. The place was huge, and Zack and I were pretty much the only ones there. It was amazing...it didn't feel like we were in HCMC. The absolute best part of the park was the ice sculpture house. Neither Zack nor I had been in one before, so we didn't know what to expect. They gave us long jackets to put on, and we basically opened a walk-in freezer door to enter. Inside, it was like nothing I had ever seen. There was a HUGE room with life-size ice sculptures EVERYWHERE. Houses, castles, people, Buddhas - you could walk through everything, it was pretty magical. There were colored/neon lights illuminating all of it, so it was like a fantasy ice world. Amazing. It felt like a combination of Willy Wonka World and Edward Scissorhands. :-)
After Dam Sen Park, we took a motobike back to backpackerville in the dark - a thrill ride through the city. Saigon is SO crazy busy. So much fun - people everywhere, bikes clogging the streets. It was an amazing experience to drive through it. Once we got back again, we met up with our British friends (again) for some more dinner, beer, and pool. :-) (Can we sense a pattern of activity here????)
The next day (the 18th, I believe), Zack and I boarded a morning bus for Dalat. About 9 hours later, we got here. Dalat is in the mountains, so it's much the climate is much more moderate and cool. The city itself is a LOT smaller than HCMC, which was a welcomed change. There are mountains surrounding all sides, so it's a gorgeous and scenic place to be - the views are spectacular all around. Last night Zack and I walked into town and wandered around the central market, got some dinner, and then walked around the lake that sits in the center of town. (It's a very scenic place, Vietnamese people have nicknamed Dalat the "Honeymoon City", since it has become a romantic holiday destination. No romance for me yet, but I'm still enjoying the city.) We headed back early and got a good night's sleep (for a change!). Today we walked around the city some more, saw some sights (flower garden, former Vietnamese emperor's Summer Palace), and just enjoyed the small city life of Dalat.
Tomorrow we set off for a 5-day motorbike tour from Dalat to Hoi An with Easy Riders. I'm not exactly sure of the itinerary, but I know that tomorrow will basically consist of the sites around Dalat (there are some amazing waterfalls around here, I'm told), and then the following day we head up into the central highlands of Vietnam. Then we make our way further north along the Ho Chi Minh Trail ending in Hoi An on the 24th. We should see some great scenery, soak up some culture, learn more about the history, meet local people, and experience the real Vietnam. From what I've heard from friends I've met along the way, Easy Riders is the best way to see Vietnam. The guides are supposed to be great, and it's a proper break from the backpacker bus route up the coast. I'm sure that when the tour is over I'll have plenty of updates for you guys, but I just wanted to give you the heads up on my impending travels.
Traveling with Zack: So far, it's been lots of fun having Zack here. I think it will take him a few days to adjust to traveling in SE Asia - I don't think he was prepared for the amount of tourists here, and how tourist-centered SE Asia really is, but everything takes some getting used to, and when we head out on the bike tour tomorrow it will be a new chapter on the trip. Good times ahead, for sure.
Alrighty, I think that's all for now - I'm almost 6 weeks done with the trip now, which means that I'm over the hump of the SE Asia portion. Once Zack and I head up to Hoi An on the motorbikes, we fly to Hanoi and then we'll spend a week in the north of Vietnam (Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa) before heading to Laos for 2 weeks. Can't wait for Laos, it should be amazing. Then, of course, I move on to India. :-)
I miss you all so much! It's great to hear from you guys via email and blog comments.
Greg - crazy story about the subway!!!! I do miss the insane folks of NYC - remember that time on the F train when that woman almost beat up that other girl with her boot!!! haha
Ross - Kudos to you for the 6-week beard growth. I bet you and I look like brothers now. :-) Best of luck house hunting!!!! Love to Amy!
Lalapantz - Thanks for the guat update a few days ago!!! Miss you and love you. Enjoy the last month or two of the trip!!!!
Aly P - I was looking back over my photos and saw all the ones of you & me. Miss you! Remember the picture of you & the mannequin? I can't wait to post that one!!! :-)
Yefat - I've started searching for post-it notes in the markets. Excellent challenge. I'll keep you updated. Congrats on finishing law school!!! Best of luck in DC!!!
Natasha - I will try to get my pictures online ASAP. I'm sorry it's taken so long. I'll send you Noah's email.
Noah - how's the thesis going???? Miss you bro.
Carrie - Can't wait to hear all about Argentina & life back in SF!!!
Rob - Good to hear from you!!! Cheers for the UKTI updates.
Anna & Lauren - Miss you guys!!!!!!!
Lots of love to everyone else in NYC, DC, UK!!!!!!!!!!
Love to my family in Newburgh (mom and dad, miss you!!!!!!), NYC, DC, Boston
BYE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Right, when I last checked in, I was alone in HCMC for the afternoon before Zack arrived that evening. It was great to be back in Saigon. I finally had the time to explore the city at my own pace, seeing all of the major sites in the central area: the market, the War Remnants Museum, Reunification Palace, Opera House, Notre Dame Cathedral (just like in Paris), and all of the city streets intertwining around the whole area. HCMC is extremely crowded, clustered, and chaotic. But, there is so much to see, it's pretty much a sensory overload everywhere you turn!
Zack arrived safely on the night of the 15th, and we met up for a celebratory drink with some British folk I met earlier that day. The next day we set off for some history and culture in the city: we went to the War Remnants Museum and the Reunification Palace. For already being in Vietnam for 10 days, I had learned very little about the history of this country and the wars it has endured. The War Remnants Museum was a very realistic, brutal, and eye-opening account of the horrors of the Vietnam War. My previous knowledge of the Vietnam War was very limited; obviously there is an anti-American sentiment throughout the museum, but justifiably so considering outsiders invaded their country and killed millions of citizens (3 million were killed by the time the Vietnam War was over - over 50,000 Americans died). The museum had vivid photos of American soldiers in battle; you could see the sense of desparation on the faces of the Americans. It seemed like there was no way out of the war, no end in sight, and no sign of victory. This hopelessness must have fueled the rage and violence over innocent lives. There was also a detailed account of the many western journalists who lost their lives in the war - such bravery for the account of history. Many went missing and were never found. Some famous pulitzer prize-winning photos were also among the display, which many of you have probably seen. Harrowing pictures of despair. After leaving the museum, two things occurred to me: 1) I was reminded that war is futile, and for being involved in Vietnam for over 10 years, what good came out of it? 2) The Vietnam War bears striking resemblance to the current war in Iraq (in terms of a lack of vision, misunderstandings of what our goals are, how to exit the war, and why we are there).
From the War Remnants Museum, we went to the Reunification Palace, which was the headquarters for South Vietnam's king until April 30, 1975 when the North Vietnamese came into Saigon with tanks down the main boulevard, right into the palace. The north took power from the south and reunited Vietnam into a single country under a socialist republic (aka communist) rule. The palace was very impressive - everything has been kept as is since April 30, 1975 - all of the furniture is intact, etc, and you can go down to the basement level and check out the war bunker, which is a huge maze of maps, telephones, desks, all left exactly as it was 30 years ago. You got the sense of how the war strategy was coordinated, and you could even follow their markings over the maps directing the armies across the country. Very cool.
After the palace, we walked around the center city and headed back to our hostel to get ready to go out for the evening. Dinner, drinks, and pool with our British friends from the night before. Good times. I'm actually getting to be a good pool player. :-)
The following day Zack and I went to the Cu Chi Tunnels, which is about 60 km from HCMC. We took an organized group tour, so we were on a bus full of people. Luckily, our tour guide was great and gave a complete history of Vietnam since the 19th century up until today on the ride out there. So, I'm pretty knowledgeable about the French colonialization of Vietnam, and how that eventually led to a North/South divide once the French left, which then led to the Vietnam War. Anyway, the Cu Chi Tunnels is an area that was controlled by Viet Cong Guerillas for the entire length of the War - the Americans/South Vietnamese could not capture it. The network of underground tunnels is so extensive, and was so ingeniously protected from invaders. We walked around the grounds, and saw the booby traps put in place for the American GIs. Basically, you didn't want to step foot there if you didn't know where you were going. One wrong step and you could've been killed. They had traps covered in leaves that opened onto bamboo spikes (you get the idea). Very effective, very bloody. At the end of the tour we were able to walk through a section of the tunnel - very small, maybe 3 feet high (at most), and a couple of feet wide. You had to crouch and crawl through most of it. It was an intense experience. These VC guerillas lived down there for years, it's pretty incredible to think how they managed to survive and keep their will to carry on. The most disturbing part of the trip to Cu Chi was a documentary video that we watched of the Cu Chi guerillas explaining how they lived there, how they built the tunnels, etc. Their main goal was to kill Americans. They had an award for the "American Killer Hero" - basically whoever could kill the most Americans. I felt pretty sick from it all - I kept thinking of my country, and the American families who had to hear that their child was killed in Vietnam. And then I see the smiling faces of the guerillas as they prepare the traps and weapons. It was all so confusing. In war, which side is right??? Didn't these people have a right to defend their land??? OH - and, to top off one heck of a troubling day, there was a shooting range right there, so you could buy a round and shoot an AK-47 if you so desire. So there were gunshots going off as we were walking around the place!!!!! Ugh.
Needless to say, after we got back from Cu Chi, Zack and I needed a break from Vietnam War activities. We decided to go to Dam Sen Park, which we read about in the Lonely Planet. We didn't really know what to expect, but we took a motobike out to the park, which was a pretty long ride and it gave us a GREAT view of the real Saigon, outside of backpackerville. So, Dam Sen is an amusement park/zoo/fantasy land - there are roller coasters, haunted houses, ferris wheels, AND an alligator habitat, a bird sanctuary, cobra display, elephant riding AND an orchid/flower garden. The place was huge, and Zack and I were pretty much the only ones there. It was amazing...it didn't feel like we were in HCMC. The absolute best part of the park was the ice sculpture house. Neither Zack nor I had been in one before, so we didn't know what to expect. They gave us long jackets to put on, and we basically opened a walk-in freezer door to enter. Inside, it was like nothing I had ever seen. There was a HUGE room with life-size ice sculptures EVERYWHERE. Houses, castles, people, Buddhas - you could walk through everything, it was pretty magical. There were colored/neon lights illuminating all of it, so it was like a fantasy ice world. Amazing. It felt like a combination of Willy Wonka World and Edward Scissorhands. :-)
After Dam Sen Park, we took a motobike back to backpackerville in the dark - a thrill ride through the city. Saigon is SO crazy busy. So much fun - people everywhere, bikes clogging the streets. It was an amazing experience to drive through it. Once we got back again, we met up with our British friends (again) for some more dinner, beer, and pool. :-) (Can we sense a pattern of activity here????)
The next day (the 18th, I believe), Zack and I boarded a morning bus for Dalat. About 9 hours later, we got here. Dalat is in the mountains, so it's much the climate is much more moderate and cool. The city itself is a LOT smaller than HCMC, which was a welcomed change. There are mountains surrounding all sides, so it's a gorgeous and scenic place to be - the views are spectacular all around. Last night Zack and I walked into town and wandered around the central market, got some dinner, and then walked around the lake that sits in the center of town. (It's a very scenic place, Vietnamese people have nicknamed Dalat the "Honeymoon City", since it has become a romantic holiday destination. No romance for me yet, but I'm still enjoying the city.) We headed back early and got a good night's sleep (for a change!). Today we walked around the city some more, saw some sights (flower garden, former Vietnamese emperor's Summer Palace), and just enjoyed the small city life of Dalat.
Tomorrow we set off for a 5-day motorbike tour from Dalat to Hoi An with Easy Riders. I'm not exactly sure of the itinerary, but I know that tomorrow will basically consist of the sites around Dalat (there are some amazing waterfalls around here, I'm told), and then the following day we head up into the central highlands of Vietnam. Then we make our way further north along the Ho Chi Minh Trail ending in Hoi An on the 24th. We should see some great scenery, soak up some culture, learn more about the history, meet local people, and experience the real Vietnam. From what I've heard from friends I've met along the way, Easy Riders is the best way to see Vietnam. The guides are supposed to be great, and it's a proper break from the backpacker bus route up the coast. I'm sure that when the tour is over I'll have plenty of updates for you guys, but I just wanted to give you the heads up on my impending travels.
Traveling with Zack: So far, it's been lots of fun having Zack here. I think it will take him a few days to adjust to traveling in SE Asia - I don't think he was prepared for the amount of tourists here, and how tourist-centered SE Asia really is, but everything takes some getting used to, and when we head out on the bike tour tomorrow it will be a new chapter on the trip. Good times ahead, for sure.
Alrighty, I think that's all for now - I'm almost 6 weeks done with the trip now, which means that I'm over the hump of the SE Asia portion. Once Zack and I head up to Hoi An on the motorbikes, we fly to Hanoi and then we'll spend a week in the north of Vietnam (Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa) before heading to Laos for 2 weeks. Can't wait for Laos, it should be amazing. Then, of course, I move on to India. :-)
I miss you all so much! It's great to hear from you guys via email and blog comments.
Greg - crazy story about the subway!!!! I do miss the insane folks of NYC - remember that time on the F train when that woman almost beat up that other girl with her boot!!! haha
Ross - Kudos to you for the 6-week beard growth. I bet you and I look like brothers now. :-) Best of luck house hunting!!!! Love to Amy!
Lalapantz - Thanks for the guat update a few days ago!!! Miss you and love you. Enjoy the last month or two of the trip!!!!
Aly P - I was looking back over my photos and saw all the ones of you & me. Miss you! Remember the picture of you & the mannequin? I can't wait to post that one!!! :-)
Yefat - I've started searching for post-it notes in the markets. Excellent challenge. I'll keep you updated. Congrats on finishing law school!!! Best of luck in DC!!!
Natasha - I will try to get my pictures online ASAP. I'm sorry it's taken so long. I'll send you Noah's email.
Noah - how's the thesis going???? Miss you bro.
Carrie - Can't wait to hear all about Argentina & life back in SF!!!
Rob - Good to hear from you!!! Cheers for the UKTI updates.
Anna & Lauren - Miss you guys!!!!!!!
Lots of love to everyone else in NYC, DC, UK!!!!!!!!!!
Love to my family in Newburgh (mom and dad, miss you!!!!!!), NYC, DC, Boston
BYE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Up the coast and back again
Hello from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam!!!!! Since I last wrote in, I've traveled all the way up the coast of Vietnam to Hanoi, and today I flew back down to HCM (aka Saigon) to do it all over again....Vietnam, Part II!! Granted, I know for sure that my second trip up the country will be completely different than the first time up with Brad, so I'm extremely excited for the next couple of weeks. Ok, before we move ahead with future travel plans, let's recap the past couple of amazing days.
When I last left off, I was waxing fashionisto from Hoi An and the multitude of wonderful clothes I can't wait to wear (if and when they arrive at 122 Dogwood Lane - fingers crossed!) Hoi An was beautiful, so charming and quiet...Next stop was Hue, which is pretty much in the middle of Vietnam, and luckily only a 4 hour bus ride from Hoi An. I didn't really know much about Hue, and heard mixed things from various people, so I didn't really expect much going in. After the bus dropped us off and we found a guest house, Brad and I spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the city, eating pho (great Vietnamese noodle soup!), playing cards, just relaxing. Hue isn't the historical gem of a city like Hoi An is, so I didn't feel the need to make like a tourist and flock around. Anyway, after a great Indian meal, Brad & I booked a motorbike tour of Hue for the next day (we each ride behind a driver, so I didn't have to drive this time, luckily!). That evening we hung out with some Canadian girls who were on our bus ride - beer and cards (which seems to have been a recurring theme of the past 10 days).
Anyway, day 2 in Hue - we wake up to a dissapating torrential downpour, and we hope that it's the last of the rain for the day before we go on a motorbike . (hehehehehe) Brad and I grab our stuff for the day, and walk across the street to meet our bike guides. Let me first reiterate how much I love riding mopeds - I think Vietnam part II will have lots more bike rides to recount....SO - off we went to our first stop, Hue's Japanese Bridge, outside the city in the surrounding rice fields. (We could've easily taken a bus tour of these same sites, by the way, but it is much more fun to be on a bike zooming from place to place!) Driving through the country was amazing, yet again - rice paddies on either side, and the driver is weaving in between piles of hay (or grass, not sure). Fun times. After the Japanese bridge, we headed to a bunker hill used during the Vietnam War. So, we headed back onto the bikes and zoomed back out of the farms, through the city, and into the outskirts towards a big hill. We passed a cemetery on a hill along the way, which I felt lucky to see. Once we got to the top of the bunker hill, the view was pretty spectacular. A river cut through the mountains and curved right in front of us along its path. Our guide told us that in the distance was Hamburger Hill, which was a targeted site for the Americans during the War, and also a huge bloody cost to many lives along the way. The movie Apocalypse Now goes into more detail (which I will have to watch back in the states).
Moving on - the tour kicked into full gear as the rain started up again later in the morning. We went to a huge tomb site where a former king and his family were buried - very impressive grounds, huge column structures, large temples, etc. Very flashy, for its time. Then we headed to a pagoda which contained the car which, in 1950-something, a monk drove to HCM and then lit himself on fire to protest the mistreatment of Buddhist monks in Vietnam by the government. There's a picture of the monk sitting in the lotus position, on fire, and looking extremely at peace - as if only in that extreme, unthinkable pain could he escape the pain of reality.
Then it poured...I mean, poured - but we kept on going! Driving on a motorbike through the rainy streets of Hue was lots of fun...probably not the safest thing in the world, as the puddles started to accumulate into small pools of water, but it added to the excitement to the day! And, kudos to my driver for being able to see the road in front of him, and for getting me back alive. :-) All in all, it was another great day - the tour guides were excellent, and motorbiking around a city is the only way to really do it! Brad and I spent the rest of the day hanging out, playing cards, (the rain eventually stopped), and then we got ready to catch our 6pm bus to Hanoi. Hue was cool, (only because of the bike tour), but I think I'll be ok to skip Hue this time. Now that I think of it, that was my first full rainy day of the whole trip. Not too bad for 5 weeks of traveling, but I know there's more rain to come in the future!
The overnight bus from Hue to Hanoi is 14 hours - on a coach bus. Brad & I were determined not to give in and buy an additional ticket for a "sleeper bus", or even hop on a plane to Hanoi (which the Canadian girls did), since we prepaid for all of our bus trips up the country, so we found some nice meds to knock us out for the majority of the trip (thank you Gravol!). The drugs worked for me, and I was pretty well rested (compared to when I arrived in Hoi An after the overnight trip from Nha Trang, during which I probably got only 1/2 hour sleep!). Vietnam is actually a pretty large country - narrow, but very long. It was about a 2 hour flight today from Hanoi (north) to HCM (south), if that gives you the scope in size. So - GREG - that's why I had to take a 14 hour bus trip, there's really no other stops along the way between Hue and Hanoi to stop at.
What an amazingly nice surprise Hanoi was! If you combine the modernity and fast paced congestion of HCM with the old charm and beauty of Hoi An, you get Hanoi! (Brad was keen to mention that Hoi An is also an anagram of Hanoi.) We arrived in the morning at about 9am, found a guest house, and then went out to see the city. There is a very apparent French feel to the city - there are 2 main central parts, the old quarter, and the more modern Parisian-looking part, where the opera house is located and lots of high fashion stores are going in (Burberry, etc) There's a big lake in between the two areas, so we got our bearings throughout the morning. Hanoi's old quarter is great: narrow streets clogged with motorbikes (organized chaos, of course), old French-inspired buildings with balconies overlooking the streets - store after store, and street vendors all along the streets. That, of course makes walking down the street an adventure in and of itself - everyone's trying to sell you whatever they can, so you start to think of new and interesting ways to say no to fresh pineapples, flip flops, and motorbike rides. We found some pretty amazing little streets with lots of cafes and restaurants, so later that day (after a well-needed nap), we headed back out for some food, drink, and live jazz. I know that I'll be back in Hanoi during part II, so I wasn't worried about seeing everything this time. Great day in Hanoi, a perfect day to walk around and soak it all in. There's a much more uniform look to Hanoi compared to HCM--which seems to be a hodgepodge of architecture, history, and overbuilding. Hanoi, on the other hand, is historic looking, yet clean, and getting more modern without losing its past.
We woke up this morning, and I caught a taxi to the airport with Brad (who was, coincidentally, picking up his father from the airport who has flown out from LA to join him as they go to Halong Bay & Sapa in Vietnam and then on to Myannmar/Burma for a week). The flight down to HCM was easy, and now I'm sitting in the same hostel I met Brad in on May 6th when I first got to Vietnam! I meet up with Zack late tonight when he gets in, and we'll go out and see HCM tomorrow. Phew. I had the best time with Brad the past couple of weeks - it's such a great surprise when you meet someone whose personality so easily meshes with your own. It felt like we've been best friends for a long time, but I guess that's how it is out here in backpacker world...fast friends, lifelong memories (of which we made lots traveling through Vietnam together). He is a great new friend - good times. AND - I'm very excited to go with Zack on my part II Vietnam experience. I'll talk it over with Zack, but I think that we'll do: HCM, Dalat (via bus), then do the Easy Rider motorbike tour through countryside along the Ho Chi Minh trail to Hoi An, then head on up to Hanoi so we can go to Halong Bay and Sapa, before heading over to Laos.
5 weeks done: So, I realized that this is the start of my 6th week on this trip. Wow - the first 5 weeks have been so packed full of experiences, it's felt like 5 months!!! This is the midpoint of my SE Asia trip (10 weeks total here, then 10 weeks in India & Nepal). I couldn't be happier out here - Vietnam is a spectacular country, and I am excited for what will come next. It's super easy to get around this country, and I think after 5 weeks I'm starting to understand the rhythm and pace that goes along with being a traveler. Backpacker life suits me - I haven't shaven in 6 weeks, so I have a kick-ass beard at the moment. Please don't tell Mama Eda though, that'll upset her. :-)
OK - I think that's it for now, it's 3pm here, and I'm going to walk around for a bit and explore the town on my own for a few hours. I love you guys lots - thanks for keeping up with my travels!!! I'll write again in a couple of days after I've explored all there is to see in Saigon!!!
Lots of love always!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Friday, May 11, 2007
Ice Cream & Photoshoots
I think I definitely fell in love with Vietnam today. Hello from Hoi An, Vietnam, the most beautiful old-style city one could ever hope of encountering in life. What a welcomed change this is from the beach town of Nha Trang, and the busy city life of Ho Chi Minh city. Hoi An is an old Vietnamese city with quiet streets, beautiful architecture, and friendly faces. The scenery is very French-inspired, so many of the buildings are warm-colored (mostly yellow), with second-level balconies overlooking the streets. Every street corner has the charm and elegance as the next - it's hard to decide where to point the camera! It truly is a picturesque city, this is the Vietnam I've been waiting for!
I arrived yesterday morning (after a long and not-too-comfortable bus ride from Nha Trang), and spent the entire afternoon wandering around the streets of Hoi An with my friend Brad - following Lonely Planet's walking tour of the city. We went through the old streets, stopped at temples, markets, covered bridges, and walked along the idyllic riverfront. Perfect walking day, to say the least! Last night we got some food, and ended up at a Western bar playing foosball, cards, with some beer to cap of the day.
Today was truly special. Brad & I rented a motorbike and drove out to My Son - a famous ruins site located about 45 km outside of Hoi An. Yes - I drove the motorbike for the second time in my life today! Very successful, in my opinion. (No accidents!) The scenery on the way out and back was stunning - we drove through the countryside, passing rice paddies, small villages, and so many people living their lives, apart from the tourist/western influences.
My Son was really beautiful - it reminded me of some of the temples at Angkor Wat. The site is truly a national legacy, and unfortunately most of it was destroyed by American bomber planes during the Vietnam War. We spent about an hour walking around the ruins and then got back on the bike and headed back to Hoi An (I drove about halfway back, so I'd say that my driving skills are pretty excellent right now - lots more motorbike driving for me in the future!!!)
The best part of today was when we stopped at a small village for a water break and were surrounded by about 12 little kids. We started playing with them and then taking their picture - they were obsessed with my digital camera. They couldn't get enough of it. When I videotaped them and then showed it to them, I don't think they've ever laughed that hard in their lives! It was great, Brad & I bought them all ice cream, laughed some more, and then headed off. It's moments like that - stopping and hanging out with the kids - that I'll remember forever.
The man who oversaw the icecream stand told us about he and his father, a member of the Viet Cong, who were living at My Son when the Americans bombed the site. It's amazing to see how one bombing campaign 35 years ago can affect an entire community across multiple generations. It gave me hope that this man can look at me, an American, and treat me warmly just like any other friend - even when it was my country that destroyed his.
The drive back through the countryside as the sun was setting capped off what was a genuinely beautiful day. Beautiful fields, stunning scenery, this is the Vietnam that everyone should see.
Ok - that's all for now folks...OH YES, one more thing: Hoi An is famous for tailored clothing, and I'm proud to say that I have 4 new gorgeous, tailored shirts, and a brand-new tailored gray wool coat for the fall. Watch out streets of New York/The Hague. :-)
Lots of love always!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I arrived yesterday morning (after a long and not-too-comfortable bus ride from Nha Trang), and spent the entire afternoon wandering around the streets of Hoi An with my friend Brad - following Lonely Planet's walking tour of the city. We went through the old streets, stopped at temples, markets, covered bridges, and walked along the idyllic riverfront. Perfect walking day, to say the least! Last night we got some food, and ended up at a Western bar playing foosball, cards, with some beer to cap of the day.
Today was truly special. Brad & I rented a motorbike and drove out to My Son - a famous ruins site located about 45 km outside of Hoi An. Yes - I drove the motorbike for the second time in my life today! Very successful, in my opinion. (No accidents!) The scenery on the way out and back was stunning - we drove through the countryside, passing rice paddies, small villages, and so many people living their lives, apart from the tourist/western influences.
My Son was really beautiful - it reminded me of some of the temples at Angkor Wat. The site is truly a national legacy, and unfortunately most of it was destroyed by American bomber planes during the Vietnam War. We spent about an hour walking around the ruins and then got back on the bike and headed back to Hoi An (I drove about halfway back, so I'd say that my driving skills are pretty excellent right now - lots more motorbike driving for me in the future!!!)
The best part of today was when we stopped at a small village for a water break and were surrounded by about 12 little kids. We started playing with them and then taking their picture - they were obsessed with my digital camera. They couldn't get enough of it. When I videotaped them and then showed it to them, I don't think they've ever laughed that hard in their lives! It was great, Brad & I bought them all ice cream, laughed some more, and then headed off. It's moments like that - stopping and hanging out with the kids - that I'll remember forever.
The man who oversaw the icecream stand told us about he and his father, a member of the Viet Cong, who were living at My Son when the Americans bombed the site. It's amazing to see how one bombing campaign 35 years ago can affect an entire community across multiple generations. It gave me hope that this man can look at me, an American, and treat me warmly just like any other friend - even when it was my country that destroyed his.
The drive back through the countryside as the sun was setting capped off what was a genuinely beautiful day. Beautiful fields, stunning scenery, this is the Vietnam that everyone should see.
Ok - that's all for now folks...OH YES, one more thing: Hoi An is famous for tailored clothing, and I'm proud to say that I have 4 new gorgeous, tailored shirts, and a brand-new tailored gray wool coat for the fall. Watch out streets of New York/The Hague. :-)
Lots of love always!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
Doin' The Twist in the South China Sea
GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD MORNING (from) VIETNAM!!!!!!!!!!!! I've missed writing to you guys terribly. Apologies for this uncharacteristic delay in my blog updates. :-) Right now I am in the beautiful beach city of Nha Trang, Vietnam. The last few days have been pretty hectic, filled with lots of bus rides, border crossings, new currencies, new faces --- but it's all been amazing. Here's the scoop since we last spoke.
After I left Kampot, Cambodia (where I went on the Bokor Hill Station tour), I headed for Sihanoukville - a beach town on the south coast of Cambodia. Lonely Planet calls it the "costa del Cambodia" - well, I might have to rename it the "el crapo del Cambodia". The beach was pretty grimy and trashy, I didn't even go in the water. This beach makes Coney Island look good. I stayed at a fun guest house filled with westerners, which was the only saving grace during my 24-hour stay. That night was pretty entertaining, as our guest house was pretty much the only happening party in town. I played some pretty fun drinking games, and learned all about Vietnam/Laos/India/Nepal from some new friends. Anyway, once I arrived in Sihanoukville, I immediately realized that I was done with Cambodia, and ready to move on to Vietnam. My 3 best friends from Phnom Penh had all left for Vietnam prior to my southern excursion, and I kept meeting backpackers who had just come from Vietnam and couldn't stop talking about how amazing it is. SO, I decided to leave Sihanoukville, go back to Phnom Penh, and then catch the next morning bus to Saigon (aka Ho Chi Minh City) to meet up with my friend Brad and travel up through Vietnam with him. After a great bus ride - with new British Jewish friends from Manchester, England - we arrived at the border of Cambodia/Vietnam. You know you're entering a Communist country when, after passing one rural shack village after the other, you come upon a massive gated fortress with red flags on every visible post, holding both the hammer & sickle and yellow star within view of everyone who dares to approach. Anyway, the border cross went fine, thanks to a stellar bus company (who would have thought!!?) I arrived in Ho Chi Minh (HCM) early afternoon on the 6th, and spent that afternoon walking around the city with my friend Brad. I knew right away that I had made the right decision when I got to HCM. The city is a more modern version of Phnom Penh - cleaner, more western, and great fun to walk around. The streets are filled to the brim with motorbikes - even moreso than Phnom Penh, which is surprising. We only had a few hours to kill before we had to leave, so we walked around the backpacker area of the city, and then headed to Chinatown and walked around there for a while. Everyone kept staring at us, since we were the only white people on the crowded streets, and plus my friend Brad is freakishly tall (6'4).
Right - I forgot to update you on my revised travel plan. Since I joined my friend Brad in HCM, I decided to continue on his rather quick trip up the coast to meet his dad in Hanoi on May 15th, the same day that I will then fly back to Saigon to meet Zack. Therefore I'll get to see Vietnam twice - the second time a bit slower than the first, and a few more destinations along the way.
So, from HCM, I took an overnight bus to Nha Trang - we arrived yesterday morning, found a nice guest house 1 block from the beach, dropped our bags, and headed for the beach. Having been at the crappy beach of Sihanoukville only 2 days (or what seemed like 1 continuous long day) before, this beach is la creme de la creme. Absolutely stunning, picturesque, massive beach stretching along a huge curved coastline with golden sand as far as you can see. The road that parallels the beach looks like it could be the boardwalk in Tel Aviv, or even Miami Beach -- except then you look closer at the main road (once my colorblindness wore off a little bit) and you see an endless row of red flags that stretch all the way along the way. Oh yes, I'm in Vietnam, can't forget that!
You know you're in Vietnam when, after someone asks you where you're from, you hear yourself gulp in your throat after you say "America"...luckily their reply is filled with excitement and eager to here more about our country. Did you know that the US dollar is pretty much the standard currency here, along with their Dong. $16,000 dong/dollar. In fact, Cambodia also uses the US dollar as its main currency. For a country that we were at war with about 30 years ago, things have definitely changed here. This country is on the up-and-up. You see western brands in the cities, development and new buildings seem to be sprouting everywhere, and sanitation systems seem to be more prominently put in place (even though people still throw trash in the street).
Ok - so our first day in Nha Trang was beach bum-tastic. We soaked up some rays, then walked around the town for some good eats and drinks. A couple of highlights from last night: our first stop was in this loud, bumping (yet small) Vietnamese club, and everyone was just seated on couches around the room not talking (since the music was so loud). All eyes were on the two big white guys when we entered, and about 3 different girls (and 1 guy) kept sitting next to us in alternating rotations to practice their sparse English. There was a lot of awkward smiling, but you gotta love the Vietnamese for trying with their English. Later on we found the happening western bar in town - Crazy Kim's - KIM: I took a picture for you! - and enjoyed a game of pool and some beers.
By the way - if you ever go backpacking around southeast Asia, expect to play A LOT of pool. I think my previous exposure to the game was during those random trips to that pool hall in Newburgh next to Big 3 Deli when we had NOTHING TO DO!!! (REMEMBER ROSS - back in the day!!!), and I can't say that I've liked the game so much, but every guest house you go to, every bar you enter, there's always a game to play. And, I'm actually getting pretty ok at the game. :-)
Today was our big boat trip around the islands of Nha Trang. Brad & I were picked up at 8:30 am and were brought to the harbor to board a boat with about 40 other Vietnamese families. (The boat next to us had all of the Westerners, but we realized later that this would be to our advantage). Our day would bring us to 4 different islands, and lots of random fun along the way. First stop: snorkeling off of island #1 (Hon Tam I think?) The coral reef around the island was beautiful, and we saw lots of cool tropical fish. The best part about snorkeling was the tiny jellyfish scattered about that you had to avoid. I think I was stung a couple of times, but luckily it was just a minor prick on the skin...no tragedies today folks, sorry! After snorkeling, we boarded the boat again for lunch - all prepared on the boat by the staff, and it was amazing! There was so much food left over, and for some reason, everyone kept thinking that Brad & I could finish it all. 'Oh, don't worry, those monstrous Americans can finish it for us.' :-)
Once the table was cleared following lunch, one of the crew brought out 3 buckets tied together and placed it in the center of the table. These are no 3 ordinary buckets - this was our very own Vietnamese party boat drum kit! Another crew member jumped on the stage with his electric guitar, and our 2 tour guides came out with microphones and started singing Vietnamese songs. Of course, after the crowd warmer-uppers were finished, the MC came up to Brad and me and asked where we were from, and subsequently dragged us on stage to sing a song from America. (because there is only 1 song that comes to mind when someone asks you to sing an American song). Our MC chose Hotel California, (which is a big fave in this part of the world), and Brad & I got about 2 lines into the song before we went blank. (Aly - you should have been there!!!!!!!!!) The song cut off about midway since we were just standing there blank-faced, but fortunately the band went right into their signature rock song - Chubby Checker's "Twistin The Night Away". Ah, this is a much easier song with which to make a fool of myself, my mind said. So, I began twisting on a boat in the South China Sea while the Vietnamese were channeling good ol' Chubby Checker. We brought the house down. It was quite a scene.
After the dancing, we stopped off another island for some more diving off the boat's top deck/drinking rice wine in the sea (standard operating procedure, I'm sure), and then we headed to an aquarium on island #4. Very cool place, saw some great fish. Then we ended the day back at Nha Trang and were brought back our guest house. Fun times.
The best part about evenings in beach towns are the great seafood you can eat for dinner - mmmmm. Brad and I shared a heaping portion of clams, mussels, king prawns, oysters, fish, and squid, as well as two monstrous desserts - all for about $7 each. Too right. Excellent dinner.
And that brings us to now. I've heard from lots of people from my parents' generation that they find it strange to hear from me in Vietnam when they spent so many years trying to stay out of this country. I think I have lots more to learn about the history of Vietnam, (which I'll do more thoroughly on my second trip up the country - starting in Saigon. The Viet Cong's Cu Chi tunnels and the War Rememberance Museum will be my first two stops when I return to HCM) but for now, I think it's a truly unique place. Vietnam joined the World Trade Organization only a few months ago, and there is a sense of prosperity in the air in this beautiful country. I'm very new to Vietnam, and I will have many more stories to share before I leave, but I think Thailand and Cambodia were just preparation for Vietnam. This is what I've been waiting for - history, culture, landscape, politics. Lots to see and do, and it will be great.
That's all for now - this internet cafe is closing down, so I must say goodbye!!! Please add comments and email me!!!
Lots of love always!!!!!
After I left Kampot, Cambodia (where I went on the Bokor Hill Station tour), I headed for Sihanoukville - a beach town on the south coast of Cambodia. Lonely Planet calls it the "costa del Cambodia" - well, I might have to rename it the "el crapo del Cambodia". The beach was pretty grimy and trashy, I didn't even go in the water. This beach makes Coney Island look good. I stayed at a fun guest house filled with westerners, which was the only saving grace during my 24-hour stay. That night was pretty entertaining, as our guest house was pretty much the only happening party in town. I played some pretty fun drinking games, and learned all about Vietnam/Laos/India/Nepal from some new friends. Anyway, once I arrived in Sihanoukville, I immediately realized that I was done with Cambodia, and ready to move on to Vietnam. My 3 best friends from Phnom Penh had all left for Vietnam prior to my southern excursion, and I kept meeting backpackers who had just come from Vietnam and couldn't stop talking about how amazing it is. SO, I decided to leave Sihanoukville, go back to Phnom Penh, and then catch the next morning bus to Saigon (aka Ho Chi Minh City) to meet up with my friend Brad and travel up through Vietnam with him. After a great bus ride - with new British Jewish friends from Manchester, England - we arrived at the border of Cambodia/Vietnam. You know you're entering a Communist country when, after passing one rural shack village after the other, you come upon a massive gated fortress with red flags on every visible post, holding both the hammer & sickle and yellow star within view of everyone who dares to approach. Anyway, the border cross went fine, thanks to a stellar bus company (who would have thought!!?) I arrived in Ho Chi Minh (HCM) early afternoon on the 6th, and spent that afternoon walking around the city with my friend Brad. I knew right away that I had made the right decision when I got to HCM. The city is a more modern version of Phnom Penh - cleaner, more western, and great fun to walk around. The streets are filled to the brim with motorbikes - even moreso than Phnom Penh, which is surprising. We only had a few hours to kill before we had to leave, so we walked around the backpacker area of the city, and then headed to Chinatown and walked around there for a while. Everyone kept staring at us, since we were the only white people on the crowded streets, and plus my friend Brad is freakishly tall (6'4).
Right - I forgot to update you on my revised travel plan. Since I joined my friend Brad in HCM, I decided to continue on his rather quick trip up the coast to meet his dad in Hanoi on May 15th, the same day that I will then fly back to Saigon to meet Zack. Therefore I'll get to see Vietnam twice - the second time a bit slower than the first, and a few more destinations along the way.
So, from HCM, I took an overnight bus to Nha Trang - we arrived yesterday morning, found a nice guest house 1 block from the beach, dropped our bags, and headed for the beach. Having been at the crappy beach of Sihanoukville only 2 days (or what seemed like 1 continuous long day) before, this beach is la creme de la creme. Absolutely stunning, picturesque, massive beach stretching along a huge curved coastline with golden sand as far as you can see. The road that parallels the beach looks like it could be the boardwalk in Tel Aviv, or even Miami Beach -- except then you look closer at the main road (once my colorblindness wore off a little bit) and you see an endless row of red flags that stretch all the way along the way. Oh yes, I'm in Vietnam, can't forget that!
You know you're in Vietnam when, after someone asks you where you're from, you hear yourself gulp in your throat after you say "America"...luckily their reply is filled with excitement and eager to here more about our country. Did you know that the US dollar is pretty much the standard currency here, along with their Dong. $16,000 dong/dollar. In fact, Cambodia also uses the US dollar as its main currency. For a country that we were at war with about 30 years ago, things have definitely changed here. This country is on the up-and-up. You see western brands in the cities, development and new buildings seem to be sprouting everywhere, and sanitation systems seem to be more prominently put in place (even though people still throw trash in the street).
Ok - so our first day in Nha Trang was beach bum-tastic. We soaked up some rays, then walked around the town for some good eats and drinks. A couple of highlights from last night: our first stop was in this loud, bumping (yet small) Vietnamese club, and everyone was just seated on couches around the room not talking (since the music was so loud). All eyes were on the two big white guys when we entered, and about 3 different girls (and 1 guy) kept sitting next to us in alternating rotations to practice their sparse English. There was a lot of awkward smiling, but you gotta love the Vietnamese for trying with their English. Later on we found the happening western bar in town - Crazy Kim's - KIM: I took a picture for you! - and enjoyed a game of pool and some beers.
By the way - if you ever go backpacking around southeast Asia, expect to play A LOT of pool. I think my previous exposure to the game was during those random trips to that pool hall in Newburgh next to Big 3 Deli when we had NOTHING TO DO!!! (REMEMBER ROSS - back in the day!!!), and I can't say that I've liked the game so much, but every guest house you go to, every bar you enter, there's always a game to play. And, I'm actually getting pretty ok at the game. :-)
Today was our big boat trip around the islands of Nha Trang. Brad & I were picked up at 8:30 am and were brought to the harbor to board a boat with about 40 other Vietnamese families. (The boat next to us had all of the Westerners, but we realized later that this would be to our advantage). Our day would bring us to 4 different islands, and lots of random fun along the way. First stop: snorkeling off of island #1 (Hon Tam I think?) The coral reef around the island was beautiful, and we saw lots of cool tropical fish. The best part about snorkeling was the tiny jellyfish scattered about that you had to avoid. I think I was stung a couple of times, but luckily it was just a minor prick on the skin...no tragedies today folks, sorry! After snorkeling, we boarded the boat again for lunch - all prepared on the boat by the staff, and it was amazing! There was so much food left over, and for some reason, everyone kept thinking that Brad & I could finish it all. 'Oh, don't worry, those monstrous Americans can finish it for us.' :-)
Once the table was cleared following lunch, one of the crew brought out 3 buckets tied together and placed it in the center of the table. These are no 3 ordinary buckets - this was our very own Vietnamese party boat drum kit! Another crew member jumped on the stage with his electric guitar, and our 2 tour guides came out with microphones and started singing Vietnamese songs. Of course, after the crowd warmer-uppers were finished, the MC came up to Brad and me and asked where we were from, and subsequently dragged us on stage to sing a song from America. (because there is only 1 song that comes to mind when someone asks you to sing an American song). Our MC chose Hotel California, (which is a big fave in this part of the world), and Brad & I got about 2 lines into the song before we went blank. (Aly - you should have been there!!!!!!!!!) The song cut off about midway since we were just standing there blank-faced, but fortunately the band went right into their signature rock song - Chubby Checker's "Twistin The Night Away". Ah, this is a much easier song with which to make a fool of myself, my mind said. So, I began twisting on a boat in the South China Sea while the Vietnamese were channeling good ol' Chubby Checker. We brought the house down. It was quite a scene.
After the dancing, we stopped off another island for some more diving off the boat's top deck/drinking rice wine in the sea (standard operating procedure, I'm sure), and then we headed to an aquarium on island #4. Very cool place, saw some great fish. Then we ended the day back at Nha Trang and were brought back our guest house. Fun times.
The best part about evenings in beach towns are the great seafood you can eat for dinner - mmmmm. Brad and I shared a heaping portion of clams, mussels, king prawns, oysters, fish, and squid, as well as two monstrous desserts - all for about $7 each. Too right. Excellent dinner.
And that brings us to now. I've heard from lots of people from my parents' generation that they find it strange to hear from me in Vietnam when they spent so many years trying to stay out of this country. I think I have lots more to learn about the history of Vietnam, (which I'll do more thoroughly on my second trip up the country - starting in Saigon. The Viet Cong's Cu Chi tunnels and the War Rememberance Museum will be my first two stops when I return to HCM) but for now, I think it's a truly unique place. Vietnam joined the World Trade Organization only a few months ago, and there is a sense of prosperity in the air in this beautiful country. I'm very new to Vietnam, and I will have many more stories to share before I leave, but I think Thailand and Cambodia were just preparation for Vietnam. This is what I've been waiting for - history, culture, landscape, politics. Lots to see and do, and it will be great.
That's all for now - this internet cafe is closing down, so I must say goodbye!!! Please add comments and email me!!!
Lots of love always!!!!!
Thursday, May 3, 2007
Same Same But Different - Our First Top 10 of the trip
Hello from Kampot, Cambodia!!!! I arrived here last night, after a truly spectacular bus ride down through Cambodia's countryside. (One minor mishap along the way, a small bit of smoke pouring out of the front of the bus, but not a big deal) The views were amazing - flat, checkered farmland as far as the eye can see in either direction, and once in a while we'd pass through small, simple towns. Children were walking and biking home from school in their uniforms at the side of the road (little kids riding big bikes alongside passing traffic, one would think that is very dangerous, but not in Cambodia. It's the way of life). Anyway, we arrived at the center of town just as it was getting dark, and just as it started to pour. A British friend that I traveled down from Phnom Penh with and I checked out a couple of guest houses, and then chose one that was right...lots of other backpackers, clean, nice people, and $3/night. I love living on a budget.
Today I embarked on a full day tour of the area. Kampot's most unique attraction is the Bokor Hill Station, which is an abandoned vacation resort town, formerly used during the French colonial period in the early 20th century. Basically, they built this big palacial complex with grand views, a nearby church, and then once France pulled out of Cambodia in the 1950s, it quickly went into disrepair and ruin (to put it lightly). Today, Bokor Hill Station is a national park, and the buildings are eerie, empty, and a stark reminder of chaotic century Cambodia has endured. The buildings are ravaged by fighting between the Khmer Rouge & the Vietnamese army, and the buildings are destroyed and decrepit - it was hard to imagine what the place was like at its prime.
In order to reach Bokor Hill Station, you have to take a truck ride for 1 1/2 hours up the mountain. Easy enough, right? Well, not in Cambodia, and not on this road, which was pretty much destroyed by the Khmer Rouge 30 years ago. To say that the road was plagued with craters is putting it lightly. Hardly any asphalt is left, and it's basically going over large boulders and dirt road all the way up the hill. Plus, sitting on the back of a truck for the ride up and back has left me with a numb bum. Very sad.
After we walked around Bokor, we headed on a mini trek through the surrounding national park. Our trail was originally cleared by the Khmer Rouge to march people towards the cliff and push them off. The cliff is now overgrown with plants and trees, but it's haunting think that it is rooted in so much death.
Our day ended with an hour-long boat ride up the nearby river overlooking the sunset. The boat was very simple, long and narrow, in the shape of a canoe, but much bigger than your average canoe. The Cambodian husband and wife in the back of the boat were monitoring the steering and water pumping (aka - manually pumping water out of the boat), and it was a perfect way to end the day. The river was narrow, with the sun setting on the hills around us. Every now and then, local fishing boats would pass us and it reminded me how simple life is here - the people have very little, but there is always a smile on every face you see. Happiness is not based on material wealth in this country.
Tomorrow or the next day I will head to Sihanoukville, and beach town on the southern coast of Cambodia. There are caves nearby Kampot, so I might check those out tomorrow, but I'm not sure - I'm enjoying each day one by one. Vietnam is the next stop after Cambodia, so I should be there in a few days. Can't wait!
Top 10 Things I Love About Traveling in SE Asia
10. Reading book after book, and then passing them on to a new friend
9. No alarms to wake up to (except if it's a travel day and you're catching the early bus)
8. I'm surrounded by all the British people I could ever ask for
7. The difference between $4/night and $3/night is a big deal
6. The hardest choice I have during the day: "Should I have noodles or rice?"
5. What's a bus trip without a near disaster?
4. Beer Lao, Chang Beer, Tiger Beer
3. Same Same But Different
2. Figuring it out when you thought you couldn't
1. Every day is an adventure
Speak to you again soon, lots of love always!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Today I embarked on a full day tour of the area. Kampot's most unique attraction is the Bokor Hill Station, which is an abandoned vacation resort town, formerly used during the French colonial period in the early 20th century. Basically, they built this big palacial complex with grand views, a nearby church, and then once France pulled out of Cambodia in the 1950s, it quickly went into disrepair and ruin (to put it lightly). Today, Bokor Hill Station is a national park, and the buildings are eerie, empty, and a stark reminder of chaotic century Cambodia has endured. The buildings are ravaged by fighting between the Khmer Rouge & the Vietnamese army, and the buildings are destroyed and decrepit - it was hard to imagine what the place was like at its prime.
In order to reach Bokor Hill Station, you have to take a truck ride for 1 1/2 hours up the mountain. Easy enough, right? Well, not in Cambodia, and not on this road, which was pretty much destroyed by the Khmer Rouge 30 years ago. To say that the road was plagued with craters is putting it lightly. Hardly any asphalt is left, and it's basically going over large boulders and dirt road all the way up the hill. Plus, sitting on the back of a truck for the ride up and back has left me with a numb bum. Very sad.
After we walked around Bokor, we headed on a mini trek through the surrounding national park. Our trail was originally cleared by the Khmer Rouge to march people towards the cliff and push them off. The cliff is now overgrown with plants and trees, but it's haunting think that it is rooted in so much death.
Our day ended with an hour-long boat ride up the nearby river overlooking the sunset. The boat was very simple, long and narrow, in the shape of a canoe, but much bigger than your average canoe. The Cambodian husband and wife in the back of the boat were monitoring the steering and water pumping (aka - manually pumping water out of the boat), and it was a perfect way to end the day. The river was narrow, with the sun setting on the hills around us. Every now and then, local fishing boats would pass us and it reminded me how simple life is here - the people have very little, but there is always a smile on every face you see. Happiness is not based on material wealth in this country.
Tomorrow or the next day I will head to Sihanoukville, and beach town on the southern coast of Cambodia. There are caves nearby Kampot, so I might check those out tomorrow, but I'm not sure - I'm enjoying each day one by one. Vietnam is the next stop after Cambodia, so I should be there in a few days. Can't wait!
Top 10 Things I Love About Traveling in SE Asia
10. Reading book after book, and then passing them on to a new friend
9. No alarms to wake up to (except if it's a travel day and you're catching the early bus)
8. I'm surrounded by all the British people I could ever ask for
7. The difference between $4/night and $3/night is a big deal
6. The hardest choice I have during the day: "Should I have noodles or rice?"
5. What's a bus trip without a near disaster?
4. Beer Lao, Chang Beer, Tiger Beer
3. Same Same But Different
2. Figuring it out when you thought you couldn't
1. Every day is an adventure
Speak to you again soon, lots of love always!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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